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Using fresh, seasonal ingredients can transform a nonalcoholic drink from a self-imposed alternative into something that feels special, whether it’s a persimmon gin fizz or a spiced whiskey sour.

“I miss it so much ... so enjoy your whiskey sour. I’m very, very jealous.”

But the proprietors of a bar might balk at suddenly doubling the price of a whiskey sour, and offering trendy new options that replace the egg with an essentially free ingredient might be appealing.

Give me your margaritas, your whiskey sours, lemon drops and cosmopolitans.

When I tried ordering a whiskey sour at the Jim Beam booth, a woman directed me to a bank of iPads.