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Otto is Prà’s entry-level bottle, but it is exceptional nonetheless, made entirely out of garganega, the leading Soave grape, from the volcanic soils of the Classico subzone.

The success of Fontana Candida’s mass-produced Frascati was a boon to the brand but a bane to higher-quality producers such as Fabrizio Santarelli, of Castel de Paolis, in the venerated Frascati subzone of Castelli Romana.

Extensive excavation in this wormy subzone of paternal psychopathology is grueling for the author, who becomes “concerned that examining the minutiae of his life was turning me into him” and who verges on erasing himself: “I had become my own ghost,” he writes, “haunting my past.”

The 3.2-acre getaway was within a protected subzone of the state.

Dividing Greater London into postal zones, the Graham organizers found supervisors for each zone, who in turn commanded subzone lieutenants and block captains.