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"It can be enjoyed during conversations at the bar, with that mix of aromas of wood fire and spices, drinks and stockfish."

Calabria is famous for stockfish – dried cod, which is generally prepared with pasta.

She was leaving with small bags of cornmeal and egg yolk and two pieces of stockfish when Okoromadu arrived.

They included oatmeal, “wheat meal,” “biscuit bread,” dried peas, rice, salted beef and “stockfish.”

All is rugged mountains, blue seas and interesting architecture — and drying racks for stockfish, the air-dried unsalted cod that was the basic foodstuff and export for centuries.