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There is the hiss of butter and melted tallow as they slide down the hot platter, past the sliced porterhouse or rib steak and their charred bones, to make a pool at one end.

A 1.5-inch-thick rib steak was waiting for it when it arrived two days later.

Third, when you’re splurging on a rib steak, you want it cut from the front, or chuck, end of the rack — because it contains the largest proportion of what Flannery says is the tastiest part of the cow.

He says you can’t go wrong with a bone-in rib steak: grass-fed, grain-finished, well-marbled, dry-aged in-house, seasoned with a Montreal-style dry rub made for Don & Joe’s.

Food and wine pairing: Esters’ 72-hour short rib steak, scallion, romesco, paired with the 2013 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbera d’Alba ‘Scudetto.’