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Ricardo Gallardo Leon is a bearded 20-something Mexico City resident who drinks at the “Las Duelistas” pulqueria downtown.

For a pre-Columbian beverage, head to La Hermosa Hortensia, a ��ܱ���ܱ��í�� on a far corner of the Plaza Garibaldi, where the mariachis roam with their instruments and sequined outfits.

The correct spelling is Pulqueria.

That might explain the chemistry behind Apotheke and Pulqueria, the neighboring hot spots in Chinatown that Heather, 32, opened with her brother, Chris, 31.

Getting Pulqueria off the ground was a bureaucratic nightmare, they said, partly because the building, which had housed a Vietnamese restaurant, was not up to code.