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But a petit basset griffon Vendéen took best in show for the first time last year, as did a bloodhound in 2022.

Le Petit Parisien was not petit, the French word for “small.”

Then Ella dragged Brigit to the Conjure Creole Creamery, where attendants pulled levers making decadent concretes and malted mischief milkshakes full of pralines and petit fours and pieces of pecan pie.

“He can’t hurt you. Not as long as you stay with me. I promise. Why—you’re trembling! Here, have some more petit fours, sugar for my sweet one. There you go. Feel better?”

As we sampled a series of robust reds — merlot, cabernet sauvignon, a Bordeaux blend and petit verdot — winemaker Bobby Richards passed through, his mind on imminent harvest scheduling.