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Pi00a isn’t a restaurant but pops up all over Los Angeles and beyond, baking puffy-edged, char-crusted pizza pies with toppings such as miso eggplant; soppressata with chili crunch; Hainan chicken; and Asian pear with pancetta.

For our take, we cook pancetta and shallots with Dijon mustard, olive oil and sherry vinegar for a bright yet comforting dressing to drizzle onto the greens just before serving.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper towel–lined plate.

Divide the salad among plates and top each portion with pancetta and Parmesan.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon pancetta fat from the skillet, then return it to medium heat.