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First, is mortadella: I absolutely love it.

Perhaps start with the Mortadella with Pistachio Pesto.

But I ditched the traditional ham you would typically use and opted for my favorite, mortadella.

They were recent graduates of Pratt Institute’s industrial design program, and they swaddled pieces of rope, scraps of wood and other discards in spandex that they soaked in resin, creating a ham hock-like form that could be sliced to create variegated drink coasters that a writer described as “one part terrazzo and one part mortadella.”

I inquired about some of the imaginative, standout menu items — like Swordfish bacon, parmesan foam, steamed crab head bun, skate cheek karaage, spot prawn mortadella, and of course the oyster ice cream, which Hemsley estimates about 5 to 10% of guests dislike “even though there is nothing wrong about it.”