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Above him was a bright green tube that looked like a midrib of a large leaf.

Eggs that are laid in the midrib on the underside of leaves first hatch in mid-May, but those infestations are followed by later generations in June, July and August.

Two colorful varieties are ‘Red Giant’, with thick purplish-red leaves, and ‘Dragon Tongue’, with crinkled green leaves, purple veins and ivory-white midribs.

By this stage the larvae become eating machines, devouring entire leaves, leaving only the midrib in their wake.

She buys the leaves from Asia Market in Manhattan’s Chinatown, about a dozen a pack with the midribs cut out, folded like tablecloths.