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Last week, the couple returned to some of their old haunts in the abandoned quarter of Varosha, or �Ѳ�����ş in Turkish, for the first time in 46 years.

Meatballs charred on the grill come in pita sandwiches with plenty of yogurt, crushed red pepper from Urfa or �Ѳ�����ş, and the deep-crimson spice sumac, which contributes an additional tart note.

Matur was born in 1968, in the ancient Hittite city of �Ѳ�����ş, in Turkey’s south-eastern corner, Iraq to the south, Iran to the east.