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And he admired the rows of London plane trees on the Janiculum Hill and at the Villa Aldobrandini.

In Rosalia Giardino’s condominium building near Rome’s Janiculum Hill, several families are living with their elderly parents or, if they themselves are elderly, have at least one adult child living a block or two away.

Inside the city’s Aurelian walls, dating to the 3rd century A.D., are other hills — the Vatican, Pincian and Janiculum — sporting expansive parks.

Some of the same families you encountered on the Janiculum passeggiata may well be lunching beside you at Antico Arco, a sleek, stylish and deliciously adventurous restaurant at the summit of the hill just outside the Porta San Pancrazio.

I decided that the classic bucatini all’amatriciana served at Da Cesare al Casaletto, a trattoria on the lower floor of a residential building on the Janiculum Hill, would be the one I tried to emulate.