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In Eastlake, Sushi Nori does temaki handroll sushi as well as a $68 omakase menu.

There’s a masterful handroll performance, along with friendly party �������t¶�� for the group — e.g., what’s your favorite fish?

A small, shallow vessel of gingery-and-sweet welcome cocktail later, join chef Julian Tham flanked by two assistants for a veritable barrage of “new wave” nigiri, one handroll and a dessert — 17 courses total.

This happened to me over and over on two visits for my review earlier this year: a glowing piece of Copper River salmon nigiri placed in front of me by chef Keiji Tsukasaki, or a luscious otoro handroll given from his fingers to mine, then every thought banished, eyes unfocused for a moment of pure, lit-up pleasure.

First, the OG Handroll is from Jay-Z’s pot luxe brand Monogram.