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Shergar won the Derby at Epsom in 1981 by 10 lengths in the Aga Khan's emerald green racing silks with red epaulets but was kidnapped in Ireland two years later and never found.

From his first show, in 1977, when he sent out models in full leather regalia, the epaulets of their jackets looped with chains, his Paris presentations were among the buzziest.

Officials said at the time that the stolen items included a large diamond brooch and a diamond epaulet.

However, some important parts of the collection — including a significant diamond, an elaborate brooch and an epaulet — are still missing and others are damaged or oxidized.

Some of his work subverts Soviet propaganda, grafting it with American consumerism: Colonel Sanders in Red Army epaulets, a logo for “Stalinbucks” coffee.