�������t¶��

Danny's Jimmy Nardellos and harissa relish with labneh and mint sounded amazing, and I got a kick out of the notion of going from a Chateaubriand to bologna and canned corned beef.

Paris Bar, on Berlin’s Kantstrasse thoroughfare, is an old-school artist hangout, the kind of place where dealers hold court over chateaubriand and some distinguished elder painter commandeers the table you had reserved — which is what happened when Nairy Baghramian and I met there in July.

I should have gone with the chateaubriand, because the beef cheeks, while expectantly tender and enriched with pork belly, came with a reduction that seemed to be equal parts wine and salt.

“The chef isn’t pleased with the quality,” he told me before rhapsodizing about the chateaubriand, so I bit.

People were buying a chateaubriand meal for two costing 400 bucks being delivered at home from this high-end restaurant.