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Other openings: Papa Banh Bao specializes in Saigon-style steamed wheat buns stuffed with quail eggs and char siu pork.

It’s a knockout of a dish: slick rice noodles coated yellow with aromatic curry powder, dry stir-fried with shrimp, char siu, crunchy bean sprouts and bell pepper.

Add char siu and cook, stirring frequently, until heated through, about 1 minute; transfer to bowl.

Stir garlic-ginger mixture into the vegetables, then transfer to the bowl with shrimp, char siu and eggs.

But one recipe slipped through her fingers: char siu.