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Hosts Sabine and Didier Meyer’s other gourmet specialities include beef rib with hot béarnaise sauce, cream of ��è��� soup, wild boar, venison, wood pigeon and home-cured ham.

Russians call it beliy grib, the white mushroom, for its pure white flesh; the Germans call it steinpilz; the French ����; the Brits penny bun.

“This is aristocratic French cuisine with Italian ingredients,” Pappas says, slicing into Il Carpaccio’s 55 euro filet of sea bass stuffed with a confit of cepe mushrooms, onions and Tuscan panzanella sauce.

So how do I decide if it’s a good looking cepe worth buying?

I’ve seen them at the markets but am unsure what to look for in a cepe.