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El Cabrito offers exactly one mole, but it’s solid: a streamlined, turbocharged take on Coloradito mole.

She used to drive all the way to the El Cabrito in Annapolis because she thought it was the only place in the DMV that served real Mexican food.

One of the best things about El Cabrito — well, aside from its pozole rojo, so spicy and comforting — is its desire to nurture those who embrace the business, starting with the five brothers who, as Aragon tells me, first take care of one another.

Once I arrived there, I discovered a hard and beautiful truth: This isn’t the only El Cabrito found inside a gas station.

El Cabrito’s tlayuda may be short on showmanship, but it’s packed with more meats, beans and cheese than that tortilla can contain, especially if you order it with the campechano mix of proteins, which I suggest you do.