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Breathing in the warm, musky fragrance, I remembered Piatra Neamt, the taste of cheese blintzes, and the crowing of roosters in the morning.

Ms. Zabar describes the foods and other items sold at Zabar’s and the employees that sell them, and gives family recipes for Jewish staples like chopped liver and blintzes.

We know that mascarpone cheese can transform sweet things like sorbet, carrot cake, lemon pie, cupcakes, and fruit blintzes.

Dairy restaurants were frequented by hordes of Jewish customers hoping to quash their perennial yen for blintzes and gefilte fish.

Instead of rolled pancakes, these blintzes are filled with a sweetened lemon cheese mixture and formed into individual square pockets.